If you're new into old motorcycles, then you'd be forgiven for thinking top-of-the-range machines were the most sought after and potentially most valuable.
But it's often the case the basic and cheaper original list price bikes turn out to be highly desirable.
Entry-level no-frills commuter machines, designed with practicality and reliability in mind rather than any semblance of style started out cheap and stayed cheap, and simply became disposable. Sometimes in their millions.
To cash-strapped commuters it was often cheaper to buy another than repair, meaning while some were scrapped, some were simply left to rot.
The most-produced bike of all time is the Honda Cub range of workhorse commuters, 1960s and '70s C50, C70 and C90 being highly collectable. Good ones, in broadly original condition or good enough shape to be restored, are, ironically, rare.
But they're endearing. And that's a big pull. As is the fact they're relatively easy to restore because they're so simple. But there are reasons to careful as well as cheerful when buying a Cub for anything between the barely recoverable for £300, to originals at £3,000 or more.
Here's what to look for:
They rust, particularly in the areas you can't see: the underside of the rear mudguard and under the seat. The stamped steel frame can hide some big surprises because it rusts from the inside. If the rear shock absorber mounts are rotten, then the frame is probably beyond salvation.
Check inside the fuel tank. As well as rust, old fuel can go wax-like and clog the carburettor.
But it's not just the metal. Plastic leg shields are easily cracked or lost. Replacements are available, but original, undamaged shields add significant value to vintage Cubs.
Honda engines provide legendary reliability. You have to go some to break one, and the Cub's engines were designed with the potential to suffer abuse and lack of maintenance. Blue smoke from the exhaust means worn piston rings or valve seals, and a rebuild.
The Cub is semi-automatic, no clutch leaver, just engage gear, twist and go, and release the throttle briefly when changing gear. If it slips when accelerating or lurches when engaging gear that means a clutch problem.
But buyers of some imports have dismantled Cub engines to find that worn clutches have been stuffed with straw and still work…
Pre-1982 Cubs are 6-volt, meaning weak headlights and difficult-to-find batteries. Post-1982 models are generally 12-volt with electronic ignition rather than points.
If the engine and frame numbers don’t match, then that means it's likely had an engine swap, which can affect values, but not the fun of owning one.
An early-mid '60s 50cc Cub will likely have an iron cylinder head with pushrods (OHV). These engines sound unique and are highly collectible, but parts are rare and expensive.
The 1970s overhead cam (OHC) 70cc engine is probably the best vintage choice. It offers enough power to keep up with city traffic up to 45mph; parts are cheap because Honda produced variations of this engine layout for decades.
1960s and '70s Cubs rely on mechanical points rather than electronic ignition. If the bike struggles to start when hot, the condenser or points are usually failing.
And check the fuel tap on 1960s and '70s Cubs - over time, any old petrol in the system can go thick and sticky: make sure the fuel tap turns smoothly.
Sounds like a lot of trouble? Actually no. If you want to cut your teeth on a simple restoration, the Cub could be the answer. It may nip you, but won't take a big bite out of your budget.
